Not Bad Atoll

Our route to Tahiti took us through the Tuamotu, which is an island group between the Marquesas and the Societies. These islands are properly called called atolls, actually left behind from when there was an island there. They are very low-lying coral reefs, which formed around a big volcanic island that once towered above, but which has now sunken back into the sea - actually, it sunk back into itself, which is still a very tall volcanic spire that extends straight up off the ocean floor some 4000 feet below! The circular reef just above at sea level is not usually more than a few meters high, and the tallest palm tree, maybe 50 ft up, is the first thing to be seen from sea. These islands have claimed many boats, and were called the "Dangerous Archipelago" for many years. We approached cautiously.

To enter the lagoon, it is important to time your the entry through a pass (a break in the reef) at slack water, halfway between high and low tide. Even still, because the reefs are sometimes submerged on the windward side, the waves into the lagoon can cause huge outflow currents through the pass. At our first stop, Raroia, we encountered 4 to 6 foot standing waves and had to take a couple runs at the entrance to get through. It had been a difficult 3 day passage to get there and we were all glad to get in and drop the hook behind a large coral head, alone at anchor outside a virtually deserted village.

Coral heads are a major hazard when navigating within a lagoon, for obvious reasons - one of them can eat a fiberglass boat whole if it is hungry enough! So we navigated around the lagoons in the middle of the day when the sun was high. Sometimes we would go in a convoy, threading our way through the coral in line, taking turns being the lead boat. There, someone in the spreaders with polarized sunglasses can easily spot the colour changes in the water (in theory). But as we discovered, late in the day, overcast sky, rain and wind on the water, all can make it near impossible.

At another atoll, Makemo, we met with friends aboard "Sea Lance" and "Yamana" with kids around Chris' age. We spent a few days enjoying yet another idyllic paradise. We sailed with them to Tahanea and spent a few days norkelling, gathering coconuts, hanging out, swimming in warm crystal clear water, great weather, dinghy sailing, paddleboarding, beach combing, having potluck dinners on the sandy beach of a deserted motu with good friends, kids, and fantastic sunsets. :) :) :) We soaked up as much of it as possible, as we prepared to sail the boat to Tahiti, which turned out to be a whole different world in itself...

Enjoy the pictures of the Tuamotu. Only sorry there isn't more, but honestly, a camera is an inconvenience and not very robust in the marine environment. We tend to go through them at an alarming rate! The photos on Picassa are a compilation from all of the shots taken by all the crew, and the best shots were taken by Pete aboard "Yamana" [all rights reserved].

Click here to go to the Picasa Web Album for the Tuamotus
http://picasaweb.google.com/findingcandine/Tuomotu#

Click here to go to My Picasa Gallery, with a few shots from USA, Mexico, and the Marquesas Islands:
http://picasaweb.google.com/findingcandine
http://picasaweb.google.com/findingcandine

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